I am building a model of the above boat and have encountered a problem with deck detail.   I believe there should be a section of timber which runs across the transom, mitred on the corners and runs forward up the port and starboard sides of the deck which sits on top of the top rubbing strake and consequently onto the deck by a small amount.   If this is so does this timber run all the way to the prow or does it stop at certain frame number?   Just inside this section of timber there is another section which copies it but this has the stanchions interspersed along it's length.

Hope somebody out there can help.

Bob

Hello Bob

I presume you mean MTB 629, a Fairmile D. These boats all had an external doubler strake fitted as a result of some structural failures in extreme weather, they ran from just in front of the aft towing plates to a point just forward of the exhaust outlets, underneath the rubbing strakes (above the portholes). The thin strips on the decks between the stanchions were toe-rails, these ran all around the boat. The fitting of the doubler strakes is mentioned in LC Reynolds book MGB 658.

Hello Christian,

Thanks so much for your reply, unfortunately I could not have been clear enough in my explanation of the information I require re the Fairmile D 629.   From the photograph of MTB 629 on pages 40/41 of John Lamberts book "The Fairmile D" Motor Torpedo boat there appears to be a section of timber (approx. 5" in width and 2" thick) across the stern and running forward along the starboard and portside edge of the deck and overlapping the top mahogany rubber.   Am I correct in this assumption and, if so, does this timber section go to the prow and if not at which frame number forward does this section of timber stop?   The thin strips between the stanchions sit a bit further in deck from the section I am querying.

Any advice you can give me will be much appreciated so that I can get on with the construction of my model.

Regards, Bob

Hello Bob - welcome aboard.

If I may add just a little here - are you referring to the top most rubbing strake? - if so, page 36 of the said book shows that it proceeds up to the Scallop, then turns down to the Chine, (the 'line' continuing to the Prow after the 'scallop') but the 3D drawing on page 58 shows a quite substantial 'overlapping' piece of timber (from the Stern) that ends at the aft of the Scallop.

Hi Pioneer,

Thanks for your posting.   You seem to understand the problem clearly but as MTB 629 has no scallops would the 'overlapping' piece of timber continue further forward as far as the prow and, if not, at which frame number forward would it end?

Hoping you can advise.

Many thanks, Bob

Are you sure that 629 had no Scallops? As I was under the impression that the early boats only (601-616) were constucted with out (those figures are also repeated on page 9 )

 629 I believe had 21in Tubes requiring the higher mounting (as clearly shown in the photo) but I'll dig a little deeper - maybe Christian can advise here?

Hi Pioneer

629 was one of the very last boats built without scallops. As you say, the piece of wood running along the top of the transom is simply the upper rubbing strip, which runs all the way around the boat. The heavier doubler (not shown in the photo referred to above, as not yet fitted) ran from ahead of the side-mounted towing plates to a point just ahead of the exhaust ports as mentioned. There are, oddly enough, no photos showing them in "The Anatomy..", go to http://www.photoship.co.uk - www.photoship.co.uk and search using MTB as the keyword, there is a wealth of photographic material there. The aft view of P 3050 (ex MTB 5010) shows the doubler particularly clearly.

This is the page in question;

http://www.photoship.co.uk/JAlbum%20Ships/Old%20Ships%20M/index10.html - http://www.photoship.co.uk/JAlbum%20Ships/Old%20Ships%20M/in dex10.html

Hi Tramontana

For extra strength, according to LC Reynolds "Gunboat 658", but come to think of it the extra heavy duty aft sections of the rubbing strips on HDMLs where the heavy depth charges went were surely for added strength too, the roll-off racks surely directed the canisters directly over the side without the need for any protection? If anything, it would have got in the way wouldn't it?

An interesting question whichever way you look at it.

Hi Christian & Tramontana,

Thank for you all your interactions, clearly the general concensus is that there is a timber on the deck edge which runs across the transom and along port and starboard sides.   Tramontana, are you referring to Lambert & Ross, volume 1?   The only books I possess are Lambert & Ross Volume 1, Anatomy of the ship "Fairmile D" and L.C. Reynold's Dog Boats at War and as I live in Turkey it is impossible for me to visit the library or obtain other books.

In the 1980's I visited Shoreham and photographed a Fairmile D which was being used as a house-boat.   I am finding it difficult to lay my hands on these photos at the moment but I seem to recall that there were sections of original timber along the edge of the deck which ran to the guide pulley on the prow.   Do you think this would have been a mod or would it have been as the boat was originally built?   If I was to run this section of timber along the deck would it be incorrect?

The Model of the Fairmile D I am constructing is built using drawings  by John Lambert/David MacGregor and is all in the original timber.   Could either of you advise me as to whether or not the boat should be painted to make it authentic?

I really appreciate the input that you are giving as after getting to this stage I would hate to make a mistake and spoil the model.

Regards,

Bob Butcher          ; 

Indeed! shots of the D at Shoreham would also be great if you can find them, I only made it to see a burning pile of timber, though I do have Phil Simmons book of with all the shots of the boats there a few years back.

JohnK

Could anybody let me know whether there is a company which sells brass pins size 3mm long and 0.3 diameter.   This would save me hours of work filing larger pins down.

Being a complete novice on the internet I have not yet mastered the art of sending photos but hope to get advice at the end of this week. If so, I will post some.

Bob Butcher

Hi Bob

Suggest you join up here, it is a very informed modelling forum;

  http://www.modelboatmayhem.co.uk/forum/index.php - http://www.modelboatmayhem.co.uk/forum/index.php

For sure someone there can answer your question. 

Hi Christian,

Joined modelboatmayhem as you suggested but unfortunately had no replies.

Can anybody please advise where I can locate solid brass pins size 3mm x 0.3 diameter to save myself hours filing down larger.

Enclosing a few shots of the boat built at a scale of 37.5/1 (crazy scale!!).

Hope the photos are ok.

Bob Butcher

hi ya there Bob the pins you require - are they similar to what we class as brass building pins - i.e. small nails for nailing the planking? or, are they some other type of 'straight' pin - I have been looking at the dimensions of the pins you require (3mm long by 0.3 diameter) is very very small diameter.   I was thinking could you use a nikel plated dress making pin? but, I have just checked the diameter of those & they are 0.6mm diameter.

I myself use a Company in the UK - its called E.K.P. Supplies their address - The Old Workshop, Bratton Fleming, Nr Barnstable, North Devon, EX31 4SA - telephone - U.K. - 01598 710892.

They are also on the web if you do a google search on the web.   I buy a lot of 1.00 mm diameter nuts and bolts from E.K.P. (as above) and they may be able to help you out with your pins.

Good Luck.

aye, John e, Bluebird

Hi Rafwebfoot,

Thanks very much for the tip, much appreciated, will give it a go.

Bob