40’ ST for Sale
Printed From: BMPT Forum
Category: Boats (In alphabetical order)
Forum Name: Seaplane Tenders
Forum Description: Discussion on Seaplane Tenders
URL: http://www.bmpt.co.uk/forum_posts.asp?TID=85
Printed Date: 26 March 2026 at 4:07pm
Topic: 40’ ST for Sale
Posted By: Don Gray
Subject: 40’ ST for Sale
Date Posted: 24 November 2005 at 5:20pm
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For anyone interested, There is a Seaplane tender for sale for £6000 in Hartlepool. Chap has altered cabin and moved helm to midships. Still has Perkins diesels. http://marinedirectory.ybw.com/boat/new/boat_details1.jsp? id=35748&curr_id=1 |
Replies:
Posted By: dgray
Date Posted: 06 January 2006 at 3:10pm
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An update, the ST for sale is now at: http://marinedirectory.ybw.com/boat/new/boat_details1.jsp? id=35748&curr_id=1 Out of curiosity, does anyone know of old Seaplane tenders ( or other ww2 boats) for sale or abandoned. It would be interesting to have know where they are before they disappear. I'll start a topic on this. ------------- Don Only a number, not even a name. How shall posterity hear of thy fame? |
Posted By: FlyByWire
Date Posted: 23 February 2006 at 9:23am
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Well I've got one, so there's a start to your list... The BMPT of course had ST1502 until recently and the Historic Ships Register lists another two I think (they have a good website too; http://www.nhsc.org.uk - www.nhsc.org.uk ) Mine's a 40'6" Narrow Beam, probably built pre-war by Walton Yacht Works and is currently in a boatyard near Penryn in Cornwall, undergoing the world's slowest restoration... Here's a picture of her as was before I removed the lovely houseboat superstructure...
How many more do you know of? Paul |
Posted By: AndyS
Date Posted: 10 July 2006 at 12:12pm
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FlyByWire Are you sure that it is a narrow beam? From the photo she looks to have a lot of flare. Have you measured her? Regards AndyS |
Posted By: FlyByWire
Date Posted: 10 July 2006 at 1:16pm
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I have....and that's when it all got confusing :) She's 40'6" LOA but 9'2" Beam - considering all the ST's and other RAF boats were built in jigs, this doesn't seem to tie up with accepted dimensions. She could actually be a Navy Fast Motorboat, but they're pretty rare - alternatively, she could be a private motor launch brought into service at the beginning of the war....or she might be some sort of experimental craft, as she's (probably) quite early (1930's). Nobody knows...and I've run out of people to ask... Have a look at my website - http://www.seaplane-tender.co.uk - www.seaplane-tender.co.uk for more info and pictures... All the best, Paul |
Posted By: AndyS
Date Posted: 10 July 2006 at 1:41pm
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Construction wise, she looks more like Zeta (J.S.White built ST) than BPBCo versions. There were several constructors for STs other than BPBCo, have you spoken to Phil Simon's about her. Unfortunately I am in Scotland, so a long way away to have a look! Regards AndyS |
Posted By: dgray
Date Posted: 10 July 2006 at 1:51pm
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Hi Paul, The hull looks in remarkable condition on her. The side planking on my little BPB ST is single diagonal, screwed to batons. Your's see sclenched (if that is the correct term!). How do you get them out. My chine has hundreds of these and I have to take a dozen out. My little seaplane tender site is http://www.rania.co.uk/ST There is a HSL booklet at: http://www.rania.co.uk/boat%20photos/ST/RAF-HSLAlbum/index1. html Seaplane tender pages are at: http://www.rania.co.uk/boat%20photos/ST/RAF-HSLAlbum/page36. html http://www.rania.co.uk/boat%20photos/ST/RAF-HSLAlbum/page37. html http://www.rania.co.uk/boat%20photos/ST/RAF-HSLAlbum/page38. html http://www.rania.co.uk/boat%20photos/ST/RAF-HSLAlbum/page39. html Hope it helps. Regards Don |
Posted By: dgray
Date Posted: 10 July 2006 at 1:52pm
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P.S. Photos of Zeta at: http://www.rania.co.uk/boat%20photos/ST/ZetaAlbum/ Hope it helps. Cheers ------------- Don Only a number, not even a name. How shall posterity hear of thy fame? |
Posted By: AndyS
Date Posted: 10 July 2006 at 2:21pm
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Dgray Seam baton side construction, daigonal edge butted planks screwed along the edge to diganal seam stringers is usually screwed. Removal is normally by careful cleaning back with a scredriver and unscrewing followed by prying the head out with a scredriver and mole grips, or whatever else seams to fit the job. A very slow job. Alternatively you can use a small tube cutter to cut back the head and then pull the screw shaft out. All still quite slow. I have a selection of these. They are also good for cutting roves off and then tapping the nail out, but often these will tap up if the random sample shows then to be still OK. Good luck AndyS |
Posted By: FlyByWire
Date Posted: 10 July 2006 at 4:22pm
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Thanks for all the info! The photo's of Zeta are great - the more ideas I can get for my (eventual) rebuilding, the better! The other big difference between my boat and all other ST's is the lack of the wide belting midway between the spray-rail and the gunwale, along the hull. All other 40' ST's seem to have this, but not mine... My hull is double diagonal with vertical battons every foot or so - the whole lot is copper-rivetted together, so I'd imagine that getting them out is going to mean drilling through...I've not tried yet as, like you say, my hull is in pretty good condition.
Paul |
Posted By: dgray
Date Posted: 10 July 2006 at 5:09pm
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Hi Andy, Sorry, my message was ambiguous. I meant to say, how do I get the copper rivets out ( just in case there is an easy way that I haven't seen) - I guess I drill through the heads. I'll photo the switch panel later & put it up later when camera batteries are charged. ------------- Don Only a number, not even a name. How shall posterity hear of thy fame? |
Posted By: AndyS
Date Posted: 10 July 2006 at 7:36pm
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Don As I said the easiest and safest way to not mark the rest of the hull and to avoid spin off is to use tube cutter that is just smaller than the hammer fromed nail head. It locates over the dome and cuts away the edge of the hammer formed rivet head. this allows the nail to be driven out off the rove and through the hull if it is not bound up too much. I find that a concave ended parallel punch is best for this, but a rod or screwdriver can be used. The tube cutters are sold for cutting / drilling holes in sheet metal by cutting a ring rather than a hole that then distorts and rips up. I have found this both quick and easy. Many people do not have a tool loike this and use and angle grinder to take the rivet head off, but this gets very hot and usually burns the wood, or they drill the head off. I have used both of these and drilling was only a moderate success if centre punched before drilling but I have had many spin offs and broken drill bits. Currently I mainly use an adaptation of the tube cutters (which is also available in a range of small sizes) is the unscrew-ums from the USA. They are modified to carefully remove screws. They cut in the reverse direction in a battery drill on slow speed and have a split in them allowing them to be spread and grip as they cut down the screw head and outside of the shaft. The theory being that they grip and then unscrew the remainder of the screw. But they are expensive, do not last very long, are best on countersunk screws and still require a bit of getting used to and time to clear them when they jam up with broken bits of screws. I hope that this helps AndyS |