Sea Plane tenders

 

  Hi John

Thanks for Info - I will give them a call.

Cheers.

Bob.

I am considering using an epoxy as part of a solution on the hull of ST365 and I'd really appreciate any advice anyone has.

The problems:
1).  A lot of ice damage along the whole waterline of the boat.

2).  Timbers have dried a lot out even though I've soaked her with sprinkler.

3). The WW2   vintage brass screws are breaking off 90% of the time when you try to remove them which shows that they couldn't take the loading if the boat was in any type of a heavy sea.  The only (obvious)  solution   is to doube up the screws by putting a new screw between two of the old ones making the old screws structurally redundant.

4).  A lot of other restorations remove a significant amount of the original planking  (I was heading that way myself) to ensure the hull is  strong  enough for continued use.  I have hesitated  going this way as  I want to try to preserve as much of the original boat as possible as it is the timber that 'was there' and is the boat ( if you know what I mean!).


The "solution" I am considering is to clean the hull timber so it is smooth and perhaps spray them a simple waterproofer like Thompsons.

Next attach sheath the hull in good quality 3 or 4mm ply. YThis would be fix on this by doubling up the existing screws as mentioned above.   When this is done, coating the lot in 2-4 layers of epoxy, applied with a roller.
I'd use the ply for 2 reasons.

1) It can be fairly easily removed leaving the original timbers undamaged so in years to come it can all be undone.

2). It provides a dry surface, essential for epoxy adhesion.

I had also planned not to white lead caulk the original timbers as it would allow them to shrink and spread  without affecting the outer epoxy/ply layer.

All (constructive) coments  gratefully received.

Thanks

Hi Don,

I would not consider using plywood sheets, you will add loads of weight and a sheet will only bend one way, also when it comes to remove it the whole lot will have deteriorated. It is a hard call on what to do and when I get advice I am always asked what I want to use the boat for and how fast.

 The screws breaking is due to them being 'twisted' with a screwdriver, this is not where their strength is they are obviously still stuck in the wood.

I definitely would not epoxy over any rot but if you intend on using epoxy then you can bo much less particular about the finish of the wood, scraping out soft bits and filling with epoxy filler. With the sheathing the more layers of matt you add the more strength the hull will gain (as well as weight) I would not just coat it in west as this does not add strength.

Edited by clive

Ah,

It seem to me you need to speak to someone who knows their onions,

I'd still be careful about the ply, the moisture could come from the inside or top and once in will find it hard to get out as what would happen with fiberglass, how would you finish the ply as you get closer to the front? you may also end up with strong hull sides and a strong bottom which could end up parting!

I would suggest you doudled up the screws as the originals dont sound good also how many layers of matt you put on depends on the weight of each layer.

Hi Don,

Give Wessex resins http://www.wessex-resins.com/West_System/west_system_home.ht m a call, here is the technical departments' number 08707701030.

I doubt you would need matt if you use ply.

Please speak to as many people as you can before going ahead with the ply, even done with care it will have the opposite effect to what you are aiming for. I have broken and burnt enough boats to have seen the effects,- she will look good for years, you will notice a musty smell  after a few years then you'll wish you had not done it!

how about taking off all the planking and then screwing half inch ply to the frames then epoxying that? you would keep the shape and she would last for years and be strong..